Here are some images that we have collected from miscellaneous plant trips. The plants shown are not necessarily available for sale.Posted in Uncategorized
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Here are some images that we have collected from Costa Rica and Florida in 2001. The plants shown are not necessarily available for sale.
This gallery contains 0 photos.
Here are some images that we have collected from South Africa and Namibia in 2006. The plants shown are not necessarily available for sale. <photos will be readded soon>
Here are some general tips to help you with growing your new Clivia plants.
For more reference, please see Harold Koopowitz’s Clivias. Click here for more information.
Clivia make excellent houseplants or landscape plants in warm climates. They respond very well to being bare-rooted, so they are shipped out of their pots. You will need to either put them into new pots on arrival or plant them outdoors. Some plants grown indoors like to spend the summer outdoors. They do very well as long as they are given enough shade.
Soil: Clivia will grow in many different potting soils, but they must have good aeration. It must be very free-draining, but still contain a lot of organic matter. I use a mix that is about 25% bark, 25% peat, and 50% pumice. They seem to really like this mix.
Light: Clivia are prone to sunburn, so a north or east facing window is best.
Fertilizer: Clivia are amazingly easy to please. They appreciate some food every once in a while, but are not fussy. Any all purpose fertilizer will do. Do not fertilize during the winter, and only when the plant is in active growth.
Blooming: The important factor in stimulating blooming is cool night temperatures in the fall and winter. It might help to put the plants close to the window (thus getting cool drafts) or in a room that is not heated as much at night. Remember to water less frequently in the winter and whenever temperatures are lower than normal.
Temperature: Clivia should be protected from frost. While they may survive a slight frost, the damage to the leaves will be catastrophic and can take years to grow out. Frost damage also will often lead to fungal infections that cause further damage. Typical indoor temperatures are very pleasing to Clivias.
Clivia will thrive outdoors in zones 10 (in a protected spot) and warmer.
Soil: It is vital that the soil be very well-drained.
Light: Clivia must have a shady place to grow. Under a large tree or against the north side of a wall, Clivia will get the protection they need.
Temperature: Clivia must be protected from frost, but they do like to have a drop in night temperatures for best blooming.
(including Leucospermum, Leucadendron, Protea, Banksia, Telopea, Serruruia)
Here are some general tips to help you with growing your new Protea plants.
For more reference, please see Lewis Matthews’ Protea Book: A Guide to Cultivated Proteaceae. Click here for more information.
Important: Your plants have been growing in a climate-controlled greenhouse and then shipped in a dark box. DO NOT put them outside in full sun immediately after unpacking. They will need time to adjust to outdoor light levels. Put the plants in the shade under a dense tree or other protected area for a 5-7 days before moving them into full sun.
Soil: In habitat, Proteas are found in soil that is very nutrient poor and do not tolerate a lot of fertilizer. Proteas are particularly sensitive to phosphorus (the second number in the three number formula on fertilizer labels). It is a good idea to only use very weak, organic fertilizer (fish emulsion, for example) or none at all. Proteas will overdose on too much fertilizer and die. It might be a good idea to amend the potting mix with aluminum sulphate to lower the pH. Proteas like very well-drained soils with a pH of 3.5-6.5. A good mix would be 1 part bark, 1 part pumice, 1 part sand.
Water: They cannot tolerate sitting in water. They like plenty of water, but the planting mix must be VERY well-drained. It is important not to forget to water during dry spells.
Sun: Proteas like full sun and prefer not to be crowded. They are large shrubs and tend to grow straggly and unkempt when crowded in a planting bed.
Never cultivate under Proteas that are growing in the garden. They have many sensitive roots very close to the soil surface. It could seriously set the plant back if the roots were damaged. Any weeds should be pulled or cut.
PASSIONFLOWER CULTURE (Passiflora sp.)
Here are some general tips to help you with growing your new passiflora vine.
Light: Passiflora like a lot of light for good growth and blooming. Full sun is best. They tolerate shade, but will bloom less. In climates where the summers are extremely hot, afternoon shade is recommended.
Important: Your plants have been growing in a climate-controlled greenhouse. DO NOT put them into full-sun immediately after unpacking. They will need time to adjust to outside light levels, so start by putting them outside under a dense tree or other shady area for a week first.
Fertilizer: For the best bloom, avoid high nitrogen fertilizers that push vegetative growth at the expense of flowers. If you are growing your passionflowers in pots, some fertilizer will definitely help your plant do its best. Fertilizing plants in the ground is probably not necessary. Avoid fertilizing in the fall when the plant is getting ready to go dormant. Lush growth from late fertilizing could make the plant susceptible to damage from early cold weather.
Soil: Passionflowers will grow in very poor soil, but it is very important that it is well-drained. Passionflowers tend to get root rot. If they are being grown in pots, any peat-based potting soil should work fine. Also, for best growth, your plant should eventually be transplanted into a 5 gallon size pot.
Watering: Your plant will signal when it needs water, so make sure to give it plenty in the summer when it is hot. It may be helpful to spray the whole vine with water when the temperatures get past the high eighties. If the plants are being grown in the ground, deep watering less often is preferred over frequent, shallow watering. This will encourage the vine to develop a deep root system that will be more resistant to drought.
NOTE: Passilfora lutea is an herbaceous species that dies completely down to the ground every fall. Don’t become concerned, it will sprout back in the spring.